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Top 5 Problems 2000-06 GMC Yukon Sierra Chevy Suburban Tahoe Silverado Avalanche Cadillac Escalade
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It’s a very helpful video. I have a 2006 Yukon and had four mechanics look into the bogging down issue, and they just keep referring me to someone else. If you press down on the gas, the car doesn’t want to go at 1-10 rpm. If you back off the gas pedal and press it again, it starts moving. If you press the pedal and floor it, there is no problem. The truck drives fine. There is no griding or hearing of the transmission slip. Any videos on that subject?
The real issue is that the parts you're replacing everything with are still crap. Why couldn't GM redesign the exhaust manifolds bolts just shows the true color of the company compared to companies like Toyota.
It's a great truck don't get me wrong, but I own and wrench on my own ancient rigs from the 2000's from both companies and you can tell the difference in attitude, OEM parts quality, and support. You know how hard it was for me to find and pay big money for the updated parts for the HVAC rear module? GM just seemed to not care anymore
Fuel gauge trash, oil pressure gauge, Steering colum rattle, certain 5.3 have trash heads with porosity. ABS system goes out computer and valve.
2001 Suburban.. 328,000 miles.. not one issue
I'm considering getting an '04 Denali (183K), and this guy out here telling you to look for rodent infestations in a video he makes about problems.😂 Pretty sure my winter vehicle search is warming up.
Say i have an 02 yukon 6.0l denali and im having trouble with acceleration just changed the throttle body and im now getting the code po440
1999 Would be included too. same as 2000-2002 silverado
Porque marca fuel pump power reduce engune
Vegetable oil based insulation draws the rodents in then under the hood.
Ground wires are an issue on these models. If you’re having electrical issues, check all your grounds. Throttle body issues as well. With high miles, simply replace that throttle body and your bogging or going dead will often go away. Around 200,000 miles, the window motors start to fail. Just remove and replace them. The air ride system is just something we all deal with, I simply ignore the message. I hope this comment helps someone out there in this crazy world. Good video guys.
Thanka for that last one on the fuse box. My cruise control wouldnt work and I traced it to a broken wire probably from some critter. I did not know the fuse panel flips up that easy however and will definitley inspect it when I get a chance just to make sure nothing else is going on!
last week when I went over some rough pavement a rattle started that sounded like the engine was about to fall apart- have an appointment next week- bet now that it's the intermediate shaft issue-
I have a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 1500 and we have inherited it from my father-in-law and it's a really good truck considering it has a new engine in it and new rear main seals….I have not seen a check engine light, however, I have seen the Service Engine Soon Light which gives me the code P0304 which tells me it's a cylinder #4 misfire….So, I'm just just confirming that if I replace the O2 sensor on the passenger side it MAY eliminate this issue?
I am incredibly grateful to have found this video I have a '04 Tahoe and a 2011 Nissan Titan both have weird issues. I went through a breakup where I got SUGAR in the tank of my Titan and ever since three different Mechanic places can't figure out the electrical issue draining the battery and not being able to warm the engine up when driving. NEITHER vehicle will go into Four-Wheel Drive….. I'm DEFINITELY hoping that your video can help, if not I'm still saving it for future references. Thank you so much for videos with WEIRD Troubleshooting!!!!
If you ever get a crank no start or stalls while driving out of the blue and somehow gets going again the first and cheapest thing to check/replace is the crank position sensor. It's a good idea to keep some hand tools on board in case the alternator goes cause it's such an easy job on these trucks it's a waste to spend an extra two or three hundred at the mechanics when you can pull into an Autozone and switch it out in under 20 minutes. Same with the starter but those are probably not problems unless you are engaging it repeatedly like in a delivery truck. Water pumps aren't too bad. Had a dealer do one and they charged me a grand back in 06 and the next time it went I did it myself for under 200 and it's hard to screw that job up. If you have a truck with dual wheels make sure you retorque the lugs on them probably within a day or two and after a week cause they've been known to loosen up and once they come loose once they'll be more prone to it because the wobbling will make the holes wider. If you're running hot going up hills and the thermostat is good it's probably time for a new radiator even if it isn't leaking.
I think this list is spot on! I would add the exhaust manifold bolts rusting and breaking.
Awesome work. Thank you!
Hey can you recommend an electric fan size to mount between the grill and ac condenser of my 2000 suburban. When idling my ac stops blowing quite as cold and its annoying to say the least.
7"/9"/10"/12"/16"??
I’ve had 6 if these engines loved them . I always cut a hatch behind the drivers seat where the fuel pump is first thing when I got one because my fuel pump went out on all of mine and that made the change a lot easier.
Never had a cluster light issue, but o2 sensors and the drivers side seat ripping…and the a/c compressor. Other than that they were all champs and looking forward to buying another
It goes without saying, DO NOT think that your car automatically have these problems because they might not. After watching this video, I was convinced I had a steering shaft problem and went to do this fix for it but it fixed nothing. Instead, it turned out I had idle arm and control arms that needed to be replaced so not only did this video didn't help me, it actually cost me more time and money. So be smarter than me and double check to see if your own vehicle have the exact same problem.
On the knock sensors there is a bulletin out on these. water runs down the top of the plate under the manifold and get through the round plug gasket rusting out the sensor. It calls to replace the sensors an harness then after you put the rubber plug back in to run a bead of silicone 3/4 way around the rubber plug leaving a say 1/4 inch left unsealed on the firewall side of the rubber plug.
I have a 05 Yukon that is next to impossible to pump gas in it without tripping the gas pump 1,000 times . Takes forever to put $20 in
I think you forgot one… .because i raplaced the resistor for my blower twice lol….04 tahoe with 285000 sadly i live in michigan and the salt is beginning to take its toll
2000 Yukon xl 5.3l, check engine light, oil pressure sometimes goes below 40 psi but if you hit steering wheel it'll go back to normal, sometimes dashboard gauges freak out bouncing but if we connect the OBD2 to it the gauges will stop and go back to normal
Ive had 2 suburbans and 1 Tahoe. Ive been thru all of these except the fuse box thing. Im working on my Tahoe now. As usual. I keep all my tools in my rig. Im ready. Why do I put myself thru this? I really dont know. I wish I had an Audi 4×4 and was able to pay someone else to work on it and all Id do is drive 😊 all the way
Love your videos. Super informative. My son bought a 2005 Chevy Tahoe everything mechanically seem to be great but we have been chasing electrical gremlins since we got it. Currently the issue is we keep blowing the Ignition E fuse kind of happens infrequently any suggestions on ways to trouble shoot this
I've had to replace quite a few parts on this car, so I can probably name a lot of the common ones cuz I had to research for hours to find them.
#1. Brake Lines. Unless you live in the desert, the crappy metal brake lines will eventually rust out, and are very expensive to replace. Luckily I found a mechanic that didn't know what he was getting into, and held up his end of the bargin.
#2. Water pump. I guess it could have been the gasket, but mine had a dried coolant chunk when I took it off.
#3. Power Steering Gearbox. Having a lot of trouble steering to one side? That's the gearbox. Took me hundreds of dollars wasted on a PS pump and bad mechanic advice to find that out.
#4. Belt Squeals. After getting fleeced on the PS pump, I had nasty belt squeal. They redid it trying to correct a possible misaligned pulley but couldn't. The cure is the Gatorback or Continental Elite Belt. Unfortunately, those are discontinued now. I have a spare, and they're apparently selling for $200 on ebay right now. I bought mine for $33.
#5. OBD2 Scanner not working. Check the cigarette lighter fuse. It's probably blown from putting coins in the center console cigarette lighter hole.
#6. Oxygen Sensor. This was actually bad when I got the car, and the other one went bad afterwards I think.
#7. Intake Manifold Gasket. I haven't done this yet, but I remember a ton of people selling used ones saying they replaced theirs.
#8. Rear differential cover leaks. I've done this twice and it seems to keep leaking.
#9. Coolant T Square is another common one. It's a plastic coupler on the passenger rear that leaks coolant.
#10. Speedometer. The motors on these speedometers go out a lot. I have not had mine go bad yet, but it's very, very common.
#11. RUST!!!! With these cars in particular, you need to put rust coating, and thoroughly wash your car whenver it snows. The car has rust everywhere, and both rocker panels have holes in them from missed rust spots (owner before me). Rusted out brake lines, PS lines, body parts. Paint has gotten faded as well.
i have had my gmc yukon 2003 sle 5.3L Flex for 6 years and most of these problems aren't showing up for me. the ABS sensors probably i think that will help me. one thing you left out I'm surprised is the blower motor resistor goes bad. seems to be a common problem from what i can find on the internet. mine goes twice a year if i use the blower on full speed
2000 Yukon 200K+ miles and feels good.
Thank you for your video, very good and instructive. I have a problem with the reverse lights on my 2001 Tahoe. They won't come on. what can i check?
Bad a** you solved my problem.
Please get back with me about this Thank you very much
I have a 2004 Cadillac Escalade with a reduced engine power can that be the problem or issue with my truck
Well, I have a 2000 Sierra, with 341,000, and a 2004 Sierra with 328,000.
Bought them both new.
Both still run excellent.
4.8 and 5.3.
Both still on original tranny's, rear ends,and engines.
Both use a half a quart of oil, at the 5000 mile intervals, and don't leak a drop.
I am diligent on maintenance, and enjoy doing it.
I don't baby them…but drive them respectfully.
Neither has ever been over 4500 revs.
I tow a 4500 lbs ski boat…a lot!
I have done the replacement of "consumable" parts, before needed.
I'm looking to go half a mill, on both.
Have had some of the issues that you described.
Not a big deal, really.
Trucks of this vintage are great, if you are willing to do the maintenance.
Just like anything else.
Treat it right, and it will treat you right.
Hello, Thank You for this information. I have do have an issue with my 2003 Yukon. It started not turning on, I noticed I had to jump every week, and now it came to the point that after jumping the car it starts, but as soon as turn the car, amd I try to start it on again, everything is dead, lights, battery, doesn't turn over or anything, so basically dead. I'm allowed to jump it again, but same thing happens. I checked my battery and alternate, and they are fine. So is the issue my ECM?
Excellent overview of common problems. Thanks!
I still have my 03 Yukon Denali XL just shy of 300,000 miles. Needs a paint job now, and she has a few little issues but its a great truck and it has taken our family across the country more times than I can count. Now, i'm stuck with a few small issue I need fixed before my next big move: I have a parasitic electrical drain that I can't figure out. I've watched a few video's on how to troubleshoot but nothing is really working. If I don't drive or start engine for 2 or 3 days, battery is completely dead. all I can do now is physically disconnect the battery until I need to go somewhere which is kind of a pain. Any thoughts?
You guys are so bitchen, thank you for all your help on all my diy repairs.
5 out of 500. It is ridiculous. no wonder Japanese brand names are selling so much. No comparison.
Liked the video.
Can’t seem to program my alarm remote on my 01 Tahoe. Any suggestions?
This literally explained everything wrong with my truck lol
O2 sensors need to be replaced on every vehicle when it hits 100k miles