How to fix a Split CV Boot!

How to fix a Split CV Boot!
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In this episode of Lock your Hubs 4WDing we check out how you can fix a split CV boot at home using simple tools.

Ball Joint Tool https://amzn.to/3XJYjbo (Amazon Affiliate Link)
CV Band Tool https://amzn.to/3Zb4C9i (Amazon Affiliate Link)

Timestamps

00:00 How to repair a CV Boot

00:12 How to Secure the Vehicle
00:44 How to remove the Brake Caliper
07:24 How to remove a CV Joint
08:12 How to remove an Old CV Boot
10:45 How to install a CV Joint on Driveshaft
11:50 How to install a New CV Boot
16:08 How to reinstall the Driveshaft
22:19 How to reinstall the Brake Caliper
23:23 How to reinstall the CV Nut
24:42 How NOT to operate an Ugga Dugga!

The “victim” is a 2011 Hyundai i30

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33 Comments

  1. I spent all that money, usd$29.00 for a torque wrench and now I find out that I can torque ALL the bolts to "a grunt and a half"!!😖😂

  2. All ways a Great Video, Just remember Don't hit the thread end of anything unless using a soft headed hammer or putting the nut back on loosely and hit the nut.

  3. The best CV fix I just recently used on my ripped cv boot was loctite ultragel control, I didn't have to remove the cv axle. Make sure to clean the grease mess and apply the loctite ultragel control. It's only $5.

  4. No waffle alright and you are the ONLY guy to stress double support under the vehicle when jacked up. I know the steering knuckle usually only needed but lower ball joint open as you did makes it SO much easier and that screw tool is the way to go, I hate bashing the arm. As for the boot replacement you will know about the boot funnel. After I saw the local brake shop guy slip on two new boots like in 2 minutes each and clamp up strap with that proper tool you have, I was sold to pay for this bit as it saves knuckle removal and all that existing grease is still actually OK. Thanks for great video.

  5. – lol, "encourage it with a hammer" – best to encourage everyone to use a mallet – rubber (as did you) or deadblow (plastic) preferably, lastly if you don't have one a block of wood softens potentially damaging "hammer blows".

    for the few $$ (a few hundred to be sure) – if the car has "quite a few miles" one mayaswell replace the CVs and shafts (or at least really degrease the the old grease – and any grit that may have entered the split) – throw a locker in the diff and be good to go for the life of the vehicle.. lol… (a mechanic mate over to share a slab on Saturday may be a good home garage addition if doing diff work)

  6. you don't bang on shaft directly with that heavy weight hammer 7:30
    put the nut back on it so you ruin the thread on shaft!! back yard mechanic😁
    and don't know and understand why there is a need to torque and not over or under torque the ball joint😁

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